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What Happens To The Following Variables As Waves Enter Shallower And Shallower Water Like When They Approach A Beach? [Solved]

The shallower the water, the slower the wave goes. The slowing of waves in shallow water has several important effects. The waves that are close to the beach in shallow water slow down more than the waves behind them in deeper water. This causes the waves to “bunch up”; in other words, their wavelengths (L) decrease.

F4 Chapter 5 Waves Lesson 4(iii) and 5

The refraction occur when a

Storm Surge Evolution of an Inlet

Water

F4 Chapter 5 Waves Lesson 4(ii)

The refraction occur when a